RIDDLING

KAARALE GLACIER, EAST GREENLAND

Justus thinks he can boat us from Kulusuk to Kaarale in three or four hours. A kilometre out, Ammassalik Fjord becomes so ice-choked we doubt we‘ll get through. But he tilts the prop and deftly jostles us over the thickest patches. At Sermiligaaq Fjord the ice clears all the way to Kaarale, where we anchor against a rock spit between two outlet glaciers. We heave ashore our gear, wave Justus goodbye and launch ourselves into the elemental, ice-riddled open.